beauty, product roundup, skincare must-haves

the ordinary brand review

hi, friends!

i’m back this week with a beauty post.  as i mentioned in my last post, i’m not shopping for any clothes or accessories this year, so i’m definitely wanting to include more skincare and beauty posts in addition to outfit posts when i can.  i’m also in the process of moving and finding a new place to live, so i simply haven’t had time to focus on styling any shoots.  once the weather gets a bit warmer in nashville and i’m settled, i’ll get back in the swing of posting my outfits and style inspiration.  as you know,  i’ve really been enjoying learning more about skincare over the past year and have been trying some new things, so i’m very excited to share some of that with you.

this week i’m posting a review of the brand ‘the ordinary,’ owned by deciem.  the brand’s focus is simple and pretty brilliant: by minimizing packaging and marketing costs, they are able to offer extremely reasonably-priced formulas of some of the most well-researched, popular, and, well, ordinary skincare ingredients.  the brand feels very scientific because for the most part the products are single active ingredients and are meant for targeted use and are meant to be layered in order to address specific issues.  i’m writing this review to give you some insight into the brand because i truly believe in it; i’m not receiving compensation for this.  i will also provide a basis for how to incorporate each item into your routine.  this is quite a long post, so i’m going to get to it now!

my skin type

just a reminder, i have dry, sensitive skin.  my biggest sensitivity trigger seems to be added fragrances, but all the products reviewed here i have used extensively with minimal to no sensitivity. some things i look for in skincare is lack of animal testing, lack of fragrance, suitability for sensitive skin, and minimal use of parabens/silicones/sulfates. not all the products here check all the boxes, but i’ll do my best to address this in each mini-review.  luckily, deciem does not test on animals and is very transparent about the ingredients in their products, so that is a plus to the brand overall.

actives

for all products i’ve classified as actives, i typically apply them after cleansing and before i apply my hydrating toners.  this is the method that works best for me, although some might use these after the toning step.  i’d rather get all the ingredients onto my skin first for maximum benefits.  the ordinary recommends that you not use more than three in one sitting.

granactive retinoid 2% emulsion (previously advanced retinoid 2%)
if you know anything about anti-aging skincare, you likely know that retinol (a.k.a. retinol-based products) is among the single most effective (and most researched) ingredients on the market.  the term “retinoid” is used to describe retinol and its many derivative active ingredients.  put simply, retinoids are very effective for anti-aging and acne treatment because they increase the speed at which your skin cells turn over.  the faster your skin turns over, the newer the skin cells are at the surface.  this decreases the appearance of lines and helps purge the skin of the blockages that cause acne.  tretinoin (retin-a) is arguably the “holy grail” of retoinids but is known for being highly irritating and sensitizing.  retinol is more mild, but still can be irritating.  if you’re interested in learning more about retinol and the varying types of retinoids, check out this handy chart.

this product from the ordinary is a more mild, yet effective, derivative of retinol called “hydroxypinacolone retinoate.”  the ordinary has traditional retinol formulas, but i chose this one as it was touted as being much friendlier for sensitive skin, and because i’d yet to try retinol for anti-aging.  in college, i’d tried retin-a but had experienced a lot of irritation.  in 2011, i did a round of accutane (isotretinoin) which, as you likely know, causes skin to be extremely sensitive, photosensitive, and dry. i was nervous to try something too strong, and so far i’ve been really happy with this product (i’m on my second bottle).  i’ve yet to experience dryness or irritation, and use the product typically 2-3 times per week.  i noticed improvements in the overall smoothness and texture of my skin upon the first use and over time!  i think this is a perfect first retinoid treatment for folks in their twenties.  as you age or as your skin adjusts to the product, you can certainly step up to a stronger formulation (next i may try the retinol 0.2% in squalane).  you can certainly go to your dermatologist for a prescription of retinol or tretinoin, but this is an affordable option that’s effective without being too aggressive.

how to incorporate into your routine
use this product at night only, and do not use on nights you use chemical exfoliants (discussed below). i apply a few drops to clean skin and then follow with other actives and my toners.  typically, i use this two or three times per week.
cost per ounce: $9.80
total price: $9.80 for 30ml

lactic acid 5% + hyaluronic acid 
this is one of my favorite products i’ve tried from the ordinary and i have already re-ordered it.  if you aren’t familiar with chemical exfoliants, lactic acid is a form of alpha hydroxy acid (aha), which increases cell turnover (aka exfoliates) and helps with anti-aging, skin tone and texture, and healing of acne.  in other words, this product achieves what your typical scrub achieves by sloughing off dead skin cells, without the physical scrubbing.  lactic acid is a more gentle aha that is generally accepted as being quite good for sensitive skin.  the ordinary offers a slightly stronger lactic acid 10% formula, but i opted for the 5% since i’d never used a chemical exfoliant before.

how to incorporate into your routine
after some trial and error, i’ve found that once or twice a week maximum use is best for me.  i use this at night only and when i am not using my retinoid.  the next day, i generally wake up with smoother, softer skin.  over time i’ve noticed reduction in fine lines and the appearance of my pores, and it also helps fade marks from breakouts.  if your skin is more resilient, you can likely use this two or three times a week, but it isn’t recommended to go beyond that frequency.

it’s important to note that there is another popular form of chemical exfoliants; beta hydroxy acids or bhas.  the main bha in use for skincare is salicylic acid, which you’ve likely used before in acne products.  bhas are oil soluble and smaller molecularly, so they can penetrate deeper into the pore to remove sebum and prevent breakouts.  the ordinary offers a salicylic acid product as well.
cost per ounce: $6.50
total price: $6.50 for 30ml

glycolic acid 7% toning solution
this is an acid toner for use immediately after cleansing.  glycolic acid is the most popular aha in use.  for me, i found that i when i used this product too frequently, it caused irritation and some breakouts.  i say that with a caveat, though, because i was also using the lactic acid serum above which likely was simply too much acid use so i can’t really blame this toner.  i now use it very sporadically but have found good use for it also on my body.  my skin is dry all over, so the chemical exfoliation is helpful to get rid of dry patches or to prevent irritation from shaving.  your skin may be less sensitive, and a lot of people really love this product.  anyway, when i do use this on my face — likely if i have a breakout or if i have a mark from a blemish i’m trying to fade — i do notice an almost immediate difference and it makes my skin look a bit more “glowy.”

how to incorporate into your routine
go gently when first incorporating this product, but many people who have more normal or oily skin with less sensitivity can use this product daily after cleansing, preferably at night.  some may use it twice daily as well, but it would require a gradual process of increased use to make sure your skin can tolerate that much exfoliation.

cost per ounce: $1
total price: $8.70 for 240ml

hyaluronic acid 2% + b5
hyaluronic acid is a very popular skincare humectant.  this means that it helps bind and retain moisture to the skin to increase hydration and plumpness.  it is also said to increase the production of collagen.  in other words, hyaluronic acid has anti-aging and hydration benefits so it’s great for dry or mature skin-types.  the ordinary uses multiple molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid for a deeper penetration into the skin barrier.  this gives further hydration benefits as more of the product is able to absorb.

how to incorporate into your routine
i like to apply a drop or two of this serum to my hand, mix with a tiny bit of water, and rub them together before patting into my skin.  i use this twice daily because my skin really likes it.  i’ve finally gotten to a good place in my hydration levels of my skin and i really think this product has been a key player in getting there.  even as recently as december, my skin would routinely feel dry and tight during the day despite all my best efforts.  within the last month or so, it’s finally gotten to be more consistently moisturized and soft thanks in part to this product.  i really like applying this just before i use my hydrating toners (which i apply using the korean seven-skin method) as i feel it helps bring them further into the skin to boost hydration.
cost per ounce: $6.80
total price: $6.80 for 30ml

buffet
buffet is a very affordable anti-aging serum that contained peptides.  peptides are yet another extensively-researched skincare ingredient with known long-term benefits for improving the texture of skin.  buffet can be a bit cumbersome to use — i find it pills sometimes under makeup — and may have caused me a bit of irritation, though i can’t be sure.  i ended up buying a different peptide serum after i finished my initial bottle of buffet, but i plan to re-order it when i finish that to do another trial.  i truly believe, as mentioned above, that the irritation i experienced was primarily due to the overuse of acids.  you aren’t likely to see many immediate benefits from using this product; this is one to use for the long-haul to fight the signs of aging such as loss of plumpness, fine lines, etc.

how to incorporate into your routine
i typically use this either morning or night, and on freshly cleansed skin. i like for the peptides to have as little between them and my skin to ensure maximum benefits. if you’re really looking for anti-aging benefits, use twice a day.
cost per ounce: $14.80
total price: $14.80 for 30ml

niacinamide 10% + zinc 5%
niacinamide is a well-known ingredient best used to treat breakouts and hyperpigmentation.  zinc also helps with clearing breakouts.  i use this product primarily when i’m experiencing some acne or looking to heal the marks left behind by any blemishes.  any time i use this, i do notice a difference the next day and it really seems to speed up healing time for me.  this product has a thicker consistency so you really only need a couple drops of it, but i’ve found it to work well both daytime (even under makeup – just be sure not too use too much or it can pill) and nighttime.  sometimes i find that if i apply an oil after this product, it can cause pilling, however that seems to also be from using too much of it.  this is a staple in my routine and i’ve already reordered it once and plan to continue to do so.

how to incorporate into your routine
i have had success using this product both morning and night, although you are advised to not use it when using any type of vitamin c product. typically i only use this when i am not also using either my retinoid or an acid because my skin is sensitive, although for many people this will likely not be an issue. my philosophy is generally to be as gentle with my skin as possible, so if i can avoid overdoing the actives i will.
cost per ounce: $5.90
total price: $5.90 for 30ml

hydrators & oils

these products are used after actives and any hydrating toners or essences in my routine.  oils are applied after essences/toners and before a moisturizer.  moisturizer is applied after the oils and before sunscreen.

natural moisturizing factors + hyaluronic acid 
natural moisturizing factors contains ingredients already present in the skin barrier that keep it hydrated and comfortable.  these are ingredients like fatty acids, ceramides, and glycerin, among others.  this product is your everyday, traditional lotion/moisturizer; to be used as a final step before sunscreen or a sleeping mask.

how to incorporate into your routine
it’s pretty lightweight but requires a bit of work to get it absorbed properly; i typically dispense it into my hands, rub it between both palms, and then apply it to my face before my facial oil has completely absorbed.  i think the presence of the oil helps facilitate the absorption process on my skin.  you could also mix a few drops of your oil into the nmf for a similar effect.  despite being quite light, i do find that this is a very hydrating product.  it is odorless and very friendly for sensitive skin.  i will likely reorder in the larger size.
cost per ounce: $5.80
total price: $5.80 for 30ml

100% plant-derived squalane 
squalane is a compound that naturally occurs in our skin (it is one of the “natural moisturizing factors” that is used in the product discussed above).  this product is a non-comedogenic (which means it doesn’t clog pores) hydrator great for skin and hair.  i’ve yet to use it on my hair, but it is supposed to  provide heat protection and moisture so i am definitely going to try it going forward.  this product is sourced from plants and is sustainable, so it’s vegan.

how to incorporate into your routine
initially i was using this product as an oil, so before moisturizer, but recently read that it can be used as an occlusive.  an occlusive is basically a final step that seals everything in (vaseline is a popular occlusive) so i’ve tried it a handful of times that way and much prefer it as a final step than in lieu of another oil.
cost per ounce: $7.80
total price: $7.80 for 30ml

100% organic cold-pressed rose hip seed oil
the ordinary’s rose hip seed oil is the first i ever tried, and it quickly became one of my favorite oils.  this product is both organic and cold-pressed to ensure the most concentrated, beneficial oil possible.  rose hip seed oil is high in vitamin a, linoleic acid which makes it better for oily skin types.  my skin is dry, though, and loves it.  it is shown to be among the best oils for anti-aging.

how to incorporate into your routine
i use this product after i’ve used all my hydrating toners and essences, and before moisturizer. if you want to ease yourself into using oils, i’d recommend putting a few drops into your palm with your moisturizer; whereas i apply several drops to my palm and then pat it into my face before applying my creams in a separate step.  typically i rotate my oils so i’m getting different benefits at each time of day, and prefer rose hip at nighttime only.
cost per ounce: $9.80
total price: $9.80 for 30ml

100% organic cold-pressed moroccan argan oil
you almost certainly have heard of moroccan argan oil for use in hair products, but it is also an excellent moisturizer for your skin.  this product for me is too heavy for my fine hair, which is why i initially bought it.  so i began mixing it into my body cream, and my skin loves it.  i find it is very light and absorbs quickly, although since it is higher in oleic acid than rose hip seed, it may be better suited for drier skin types.

how to incorporate into your routine
use as a facial oil or body oil.  apply on its own or mixed with moisturizers.  you can also use on your hair!
cost per ounce: $6.80
total price: $6.80 for 30ml

100% organic cold-pressed virgin marula oil
popular beauty brand drunk elephant uses marula oil as one of their star ingredients and charges $70 for 1oz of their virgin marula oil.  because i’d never tried the oil, i thought i’d order the ordinary’s version which clocks in at under $10.  i really cannot believe that one oil is worth seven times the price, so i’ll stick with this one.  this oil is light, easily absorbed, and high in antioxidants.  has a very mild scent.  i think this would be a great “starter oil” for someone who’s just getting into facial oils.  for me, i notice an instant “glow,” when i apply it so i love to use it before applying makeup.  it’s important to note that like argan oil, it is high in both oleic and linoleic acids, which tends to be better for drier skin.  it’s also cold-pressed for maximum potency and stability.

how to incorporate into your routine
i use this oil both for daytime and night, always after serums and before my moisturizer.  can also be used in your hair (although it doesn’t work for me).  i always use a facial oil — both a.m. and p.m. — so i simply rotate them all.  this one is one of my favorites, especially for the day.

cost per ounce: $9.90
total price: $9.90 for 30ml

 

 

for another in-depth beauty brand product analysis, check out my honest glossier review here.

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